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Leg 4: Rattenbury Island, Hakai Pass to Shearwater, Denny Island

Date	Route (Chart)	Weather
July 20/06	Green Island Anchorage to Rattenbury Island, Hakai Pass	Sunny with a few clouds

Cpt. Alec and Kay of the MV Magistra Kay will turn 80 years old tomorrow. Calm Hakai Pass looking east at Hecate Island on Right Fishing Resort off Pruth Bay Rattenbury Island Anchorage looking west to Hakai Pass Circumnavigating Rattenbury Island What a find! Sandy Beach Hide-out on Rattenbury Island Sandy Beach on Rattenbury Island

We are making a solid attempt at getting up earlier. 0830 today. Before we had breakfast our friends on the Grand Banks vessels were up and anchors away. They were heading for Goldstream Harbour at the northern tip of Hecate Island north of Calvert Island. They wanted to follow the fish and get closer to the outside to do that. They said they would be there for several days if we found ourselves in the area come on over and join them. A very welcoming bunch. Kay onboard the Magistra will be celebrating her 80^th birthday tomorrow with the Grand Banks’ cruisers. She and Alec are lovely people to know and I particularly admire their tenacity to keep cruising right into their eighties. We got ready and started off ourselves. We had breakfast and dish duty while on the move. We decided we wanted to go to Rattenbury Island just off the west side of Hecate Island. Rick had anchored there twelve years ago when he and five of his diving buddies were on route to the Queen Charlottes. The day was perfect for the trip. Light winds and sunny skies. We again were surprised at how few boats where in the area. We passed a fishing resort on the west side of Hecate Island and there was a sea plane in there and a few people sitting on the dock out of the sun. We took the Sea Foam to the outside of Rattenbury Island and had a look at the wide open ocean. Many boats were taking advantage of the calm day to cruise and fish on the west side of the islands. We found the anchorage and got settled. We next unloaded the kayaks and packed up a litre of red wine for the rest stop of our journey. We started out heading south to circumnavigate Rattenbury Island. We had the wind and the current in our favor going in that direction. As we rounded the southern tip of the island and headed into Hakai Pass the swells and the surf were something new to contend with. I usually travel quite close to shore when I’m in choppy water but with the swells slamming up against the rocks this wasn’t a good place for me to locate myself. Rick remembered a lovely sandy beach that is on the northwest side of Rattenbury Island. When he had been here twelve years ago he remembered being so surprised to see a “little Tahiti” beach hidden in behind some rocks. We came to the side of the island where the beach was and paddled in. Rick remembered it being larger but decided the tide may have been out further and that was why it didn’t look familiar. We climbed out of the kayaks and took some pictures and spent several hours relaxing on this beautiful little secluded beach. The weather was perfect. The sun was warm but not burning hot and the wind was minimal. Very few clouds in the sky kept the sun on us the whole time we were there. We reluctantly packed up as the tide came up and headed for home. A very peaceful anchorage and a pleasant evening for the crew of the Sea Foam.

Date	Route (Chart)	Weather
July 21/06	Rattenbury Island, Hakai Pass to Unnamed Bay east of Keith Anchorage, Kwakshua Channel, Calvert Island	Sunny with a few clouds

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Wolves sited here – looking for Kona!!?? Choked Passage Driftwood Ramp to Hidden Fishing Lodge Sandy Beach in Choked Passage South of Adams Harbour Lunch Spot on the Inside of Starfish Island The outside of Starfish Island

Up at 0730 today. We were sitting in the pilot house drinking coffee and something on the shore near the creek caught Rick’s attention. Two wolves! One black male and a creamy colored female. He grabbed the video camera and took some footage of them. Not long after Kona got up and headed to the bow and with a low rumbling growl let those wolves know not to come any closer. They had seen the boat when they first came out but didn’t seem to care. It was only when they saw Kona and the two of us standing out on the bow that they moved off the shore and back into the protection of the trees. Up until now this was where Rick had taken Kona to shore. Now that I had seen these two wolves I decreed this would no longer be a shore spot for Kona! We pulled up our anchor and headed for Choked Passage. We wanted to check out the beach on the west side of Calvert Island without having to go through Purth Harbour and the resort. We had heard several other boaters talking about the good fishing on the “outside” and the beautiful anchorage off of Starfish Island. We took the Sea Foam around the north end of Calvert Island past a popular anchorage, Adams Harbour. From there we continued south into Choked Passage. It is bordered by Calvert Island on the east side and a series of small islands and islets on the west side. These islands act as a breakwater from the open swells coming in from Queen Charlotte Sound. The beaches along the passage are beautiful white sand and there were scarcely any boats about. This area, we have been told, is normally very busy with large yachts coming in and out as well as float planes dropping fisherman off at the resorts in the area. We anchored the Sea Foam in Choked Passage in thirty five feet of water and took the Catch-Up to a nearby white sandy beach. The surf was minimal but enough that we quickly realized our heavy tender couldn’t rest on the beach here. We climbed back in, much to Kona’s disappointment and went across the way to the area of islets between Starfish Island and Odlum Island and found a nice secluded sandy beach there where we could safely leave the Catch-Up. Unfortunately, there was a falling tide so we had to keep repositioning her every fifteen minutes. It was something to see the incoming swell, albeit very gentle, effect the boat and then the wind having its own effect. Very different to what we are used to dealing with in more protected waters. After a picnic lunch of this beach we returned to the mother ship and motored away back to Kwakshua Channel and into a small bay on the south side, one bay east of Keith Anchorage. We had the place all to ourselves except for two seals and two eagles. The sunny weather on the beach all day and the fresh air combined pooped us both out. We sat in the pilot house and pondered over the charts and the cruising guides getting ready for our next adventure to Hunter Island. The sunset looking out our pilot house windows was fantastic! Another wonderful day on the water.

Date	(Chart)	Weather
July 22/06	Unnamed Bay east of Keith Anchorage, Kwakshua Channel, Calvert Island	Sunny and gorgeous

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Hakai Resort, Pruth Bay Surf on West Beach West Beach with the Crew from the Anderson Cove

Our plan today was to climb the mountain behind us from Keith Anchorage up to the microwave tower to get a good look at the view. We were about to figure out how and where we would leave our tender to make the hike when we were called to the radio by Anderson Cove. They were just coming into Kwakshua Channel and invited us to go with them to the beach via the Hakai Resort and beach trail. We happily agreed and got our stuff together for another beach day. The crew of the Anderson Cove remarked on how few boats were here. They said it was very uncharacteristic. Normally the head of the bay is full of large yachts in for the good fishing. Some say the fuel prices, the rising Canadian dollar and less fish have something to do with it! We had a great day on the beach and there were no wolves sited. We met two new couples through the Anderson Cove. Ann and Brian from the MV Stirling and Joy and Jim from the MV Kimje. All proud Grand Banks owners. We had seen the Kimje two years ago when we first met Anderson Cove in Clam Bay on their way south after cruising the west coast of Vancouver Island. We walked back from the beach with Alec and Kay from the Magistra and cleaned up and arrived at the Anderson Cove for happy hour. We enjoyed getting to know the newcomers and admired their new to them Grand Banks. When we talked about their plans for the next few days we were happy to hear that they are headed into the Hunter Island area as well. They are after the fish that they hope will be on the outside fringes of the anchorages there. We are waiting for calmer winds to go out there so the swell will not make us uncomfortable and possibly sea sick. We returned to the Sea Foam, had a feast of barbequed salmon, studied more charts and retired. Another day of relaxation has tired us out!

Date	Route (Chart)	Weather
July 23/06	Unnamed Bay east of Keith Anchorage, Kwakshua Channel, Calvert Island to Hurricane Island “Hook”	Sunny with a few clouds

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Ward Channel Heading North Entering Nalau Passage Spencer Group Anchorage Kona Going Ashore in Kittyhawk Group Kimje in Brydon Passage Seen from Kittyhawk Lunch Spot Happy Hour on the Sea Foam – Port Side Happy Hour on the Sea Foam – Starboard Side

After breakfast we hoisted our anchor and headed off towards Nalau Island just north of Hecate Island. We motored out between Rattenbury Island and Hecate Island and crossed Hakai Pass. It was a bit of a toss as the swells from the open ocean hit us on our port beam as we crossed. Luckily it was a ten minute crossing and we were once again in smooth water and into Ward Channel between Underhill Island and Nalau Island. We moved through this narrow channel, ever mindful of the rocks (thank you electronic charts) and turned west into Nalau Passage. The older charts don’t show tide arrows so we were trying to guess which way the water would be flooding through here. As we got into the passage we knew – it was flooding east and against us about one knot. Once out of Nalau Passage we were into Kildidt Sound and the swells were going one way and the waves another. Made for a rocky ride again. If this is what you get on the west coast of Vancouver Island on a good day I think I would prefer to stay on the inside, thank-you. We continued across Kildidt Sound until the waves and swells were more to our liking and turned to starboard and northward towards Kittyhawk Island Group. We passed the Spencer Group on our port side and noticed the tiny anchorage that Jennifer and James Hamilton had written about in their article in Pacific Yachting March 2004, Exploring Hakai, A Search for the Road Less Traveled. They spoke of how the small sandy beach was so lovely and private yet on the outside of the island, where the swells live, the trees were pushed over and struggling to survive from the fierce wind and waves they are exposed to. There was a boat tucked in the spot and she appeared to be resting comfortably. We continued on to Kittyhawk Islands and negotiated the rocks into Brydon Channel. We hugged the northern tip of the island at the west side of the Passage and turned into the anchorage formed by all the little islands there. We anchored, had lunch and did a wash down of our decks in the warm sunshine. Kona and the Captain went to shore and two boats, the MV Moore Fun and MV Knots, both of whom we had also been anchored in Fly Basin for one night while we were there. The Grand Banks Bunch were headed in our direction as well and we met up with them after lunch in an anchorage at the southern end of Hurricane Island, that looks like a hook. Surprised to come into this anchorage and find not only the four Grand Banks vessels but three others as well. We rafted to Kimje and had a tour of their new-to-them 48 Grand Banks. What a beautiful boat! The salon is as large as the living room in my last house! We invited all onboard for Happy Hour. Two other boats were invited as well. A couple from the MV Far Niente (Hans and Sandra) a 43 SeaRay, and Ed and Anne from a 38 Californian, MV Idle Ours, were also welcomed. Anderson Cove knew Ed and Anne from last year and it was interesting to meet more Canadian boaters that are enjoying the same kind of boating that we do! Ed and Anne have a home base in Williams Lake but are on the water most often and haven’t been home for awhile. Sandra and Hans are from Genoa Bay near Duncan on Vancouver Island. They are avid fishers and spend each morning “hunting” for fish. All counted there were fifteen people on the Sea Foam checking out what a 40 Transpac Eagle is all about. We enjoyed all the company and had a great visit with everyone. Before dinner we decided to take the Catch-Up out to the east side of the Kittyhawk Group and put down a prawn trap. Anderson Cove had put their traps down in the same area on their way into Brydon Channel. We barbequed burgers, read and retired.

Date	(Chart)	Weather
July 24/06	Hurricane Island Hook	Cloudy with Fog Patches

Hurricane Island Anchorage Hurricane Inlet Chatting With MV Chugwater’s Captain At West Entrance to Spitfire Narrows Captain Tom Burke MV Carousel at Spitfire Narrows Anchorage Spitfire Channel Narrows At Narrowest and Shallowest Part Looks Much Worse at Low Tide

Woke up to a misty morning. Anderson Cove called us and asked if we wanted to go with them in their mother ship to pick up our prawn traps. We agreed and they picked us up in the Anderson Cove with Captain Brian from the Stirling along as well. Off we went to the prawn gathering site. The Heards have a system for retrieval that is meticulous so there is less chance of a trap line tangling disaster. After carefully coming along side the trap they wrap the line around their winch and let the machine do the work. All traps yielded two prawns and a sun star. We moved over to Spider Anchorage where Brian’s traps were and his trap was successful. We re-baited ours and Anderson Cove’s and down the traps went again. On our return we got the kayaks down and headed off up Hurricane Inlet to Spitfire Channel to have a look first hand at the narrows that some boats navigate through. On our way into the channel we spotted two 37 Nordic Tugs anchored on the south side just before the narrows. We paddled over and spoke to the folks on the MV Carousel, Tom and Gloria Burke. They were returning from Alaska after setting out from LaConner, Washington on April 19^th. They said they had seen many whales, bears, otters, etc. but the fishing was not as good as it has been in other years. They too commented that there were fewer boats in the marinas and anchorages this year. Areas that in the past have been crowded were almost empty and finding space at docks was never a problem. After chatting with them we paddled over to talk to their traveling companions on the MV Chugwater. We talked with the Captain there about his travel experiences particularly his travel route south and north around Cape Caution. He encouraged us to go to Ocean Falls for water and supplies rather than Shearwater or Bella Bella and added it was only twenty more miles up the way from both of the others. We paddled on into the narrowest part of Spitfire Channel and had a look around the area. It appeared no more threatening than going through the Cut at Thetis Island in the Gulf Islands. With high water and close attention to the charts it is still not an area we would go into, especially when there is no need to. As we paddled around a runabout from Joe’s Fishing Resort in Hakai Pass came by and stopped to say hello and video us. They said fishing was “slow” and motored away through Spitfire Channel. We paddled back to our anchorage, collected Kona, and headed off to get our prawn trap. We too along our second trap in case we had found a sweet spot. When we pulled the trap we had about fifty prawns. Down went trap number two and we returned home for a prawn stir-fry supper. Another glorious day complete!

Date	(Chart)	Weather
July 25/06	Hurricane Island Hook	Cloudy misty rain

Commercial Long Line Prawn Traps East of Kittyhawk Group MV Idle Hours MV Far Niente

Out of bed at 0900 and Anderson Cove off to get prawn traps and Stirling and Kimje off to Codville Lagoon. After breakfast Rick went off to check our prawn traps and we were hearing on the radio that there were fish being caught off Spider Island. Ed and Anne returned from their fishing trip with one ling cod, two black bass and a spring. Hans and Sandra had one black bass. We decided to pack up our fishing gear and go jig for cod in the Spider Anchorage area. We caught ten small rock cod, kept one for our crab trap and released the rest. When we returned to the Sea Foam a sixty foot yacht, MV Desert Sun, had anchored in the bay. We had a quick chat with them in their dinghy and they were interested to know where the fish were to be found in this area. They also commented that their were few boats and few fish in the areas they had thus far traveled. We next made our way over to the Idle Ours for Happy Hour with Anne and Ed, and Sandra and Hans. When we arrived we were pleasantly surprised to be served dinner as well on the upper bridge of their Californian. They told us to be sure to visit Blenheim Island at the southwest corner of the Spider Anchorage area off of Triquet Island as a large sea lion rookery is there. They are headed to Ocean Falls and were inquiring about whether there was a lift there to haul their boat out. They plan to dock their boat, jump in their Trophy with Hans and Sandra from the Far Niente and head up to Bella Coola where their truck is waiting to take them back to Williams Lake for a week. Then back they will come again to pick up their vessel in Ocean Falls. They plan to moor it in Port McNeil for the summer and Warren, from Anderson Cove, recommended they inquire about keeping it in Sointula instead. After a pleasant supper together we proceeded to the MV Magistra on an invitation for after supper coffee with Alec and Kay with the crew of the Anderson Cove also present. After our visit there we jumped in the Catch-Up and checked on our prawn traps before darkness came. We had sixty more prawns, re-baited the traps and returned to the Sea Foam to retire.

Date	(Chart)	Weather
July 26/06	Hurricane Island Anchorage	Cloudy but warm

We Can’t Find Fish But We Can Trap Rock Crab My Rock Cod Catching Abilities Provided the Bait For These Seven Fellows

When we woke up the anchorage was a busy place. Of the six boats here three were out fishing. We decided to do the same. We headed out to the outside of Spider Island through Fulton Passage. The Anderson Cove was ahead of us on the west side and decided to turn back. Their report was that they couldn’t stand up let alone fish. The crew of the Idle Ours were in their Trophy fishing boat and reported that just a bit further to the north the water was fine. We ventured out in the Catch-Up and the swells were about five metres but the chop on top was only about one foot. Bottom fish were the only thing anyone was catching but we carried on anyway. We decided to quit when the swells got larger and CA was beginning to feel like she might lose her breakfast. It’s quite an ominous feeling to look out to see an eight foot swell moving towards you! Once it arrives you just go up and then gently down again but looking at the wall of water approaching is somewhat disconcerting. I kept my eyes on the shore line, ever watchful that we didn’t get close enough to get slammed up against the rocks. It was a tense fishing trip for me. Once we got back into the quieter waters inside Spider Anchorage we started to jig for cod. Again we caught several small rock cod but not the big ling we were hoping for. We did lose our lure as well. But, as Al on the Anderson Cove says, “If you aren’t prepared to lose a few lures then don’t go fishin’!” The crew of the Desert Sun passed us on their way in and reported that they had only caught a ling cod and there were several fisherman from Hakai Pass around the entrance to Spitfire Channel that hadn’t caught anything either. Where are the salmon? We went to check our prawn traps and were happy to have about sixty prawns between the two traps. We re-baited and put them down again. Earlier, when we passed Anderson Cove, we were invited to a feast of curried prawns this evening. As we came back into the anchorage we dropped off our sixty prawns to add to the dinner pot. We were informed that Happy Hour would be at 1630 with supper to follow. What a life!! We idled away the rest of the afternoon. We made an appetizer for dinner, laid a crap trap and Rick changed the generator oil. Kona had a nap and we soon were ready to depart for dinner on the Anderson Cove. Dinner was delicious and the company excellent. We feasted on the prawns with good wine and pleasant conversation. We discussed together where we might go tomorrow. It was decided that the McNaughton Group further north was a good destination. There is an anchorage there that Don Douglass calls, Great Salt Lake Anchorage. After dessert the crew from the Idle Ours came by in their Trophy fishing boat to tell us they were leaving in the morning and we all said our goodbyes. When Rick pulled up the crap trap we had five rock crabs. Down the trap went again with the rock cod we had caught for bait. Back to the Sea Foam to retire.

Date	(Chart)	Weather
July 27/06	Hurricane Island Anchorage	Sunny and very windy

Windy Day in Hurricane Anchorage MV Anderson Cove Captain Meeting with Sea Foam’s Navigator

The lapping of waves on the hull woke me up at 0400. There was a strong westerly wind blowing and it was getting into our anchorage. Consequently, I was still awake at 0600 when Idle Ours and Far Niente pulled out. I waved goodbye from the pilot house as they headed out for Ocean Falls. We heard then later on the radio talking about how they were trying to secure some items on their upper helm. I think the wind had created a bit of havoc once they got to the outside. Luckily, they would only have been exposed for about forty-five minutes before being again sheltered from the storm behind the smaller islands. It was a gorgeous day but very windy. Anderson Cove pulled out of the anchorage to pull their prawn traps up in Spider Anchorage and tried the outside to go fishing but it was too rough. We putted around in Spider Anchorage, picked up more prawns and fished again for cod. I’m really good at catching rock cod that are only about six inches long! We kept one for bait for our crab trap. If there are no fish we can at least trap crab and prawns. As predicted in the weather forecast the wind picked up in the afternoon and by 1600 there were one to two foot waves in the anchorage with white caps. I will have to tell Don Douglass that a strong westerly gets into Hurricane Anchorage! Another boat had come in and still another one had anchored just around the corner from our anchorage where he was out of the wind. We enjoyed Happy Hour onboard the Magistra and had a skippers’ meeting on the Sea Foam after dinner. We decided to leave early in the morning and head further north to the intersection of Hunter Island and Campbell Island. We would proceed up the passage between the two islands and head for Rait Narrows tomorrow morning at 0700. Early to bed tonight and heaven forbid, set the alarm clock!

Date	Route (Chart)	Weather
July 28/06	Hurricane Island Anchorage to Rait Narrows South Anchorage, Horsfall Island	Sunny and beautiful for cruising

Underway from Hurricane Island Anchorage Magistra and Anderson Cove Lead the Way Fishermen Off Queens Sound at Superstition Point Smooth Water inside Cultus Sound Tribal Group Looking west to Queens Sound Flat Calm Approaching Brown Passage Sea Foam Takes the Lead in Joassa Channel Private Marker for “Ray’s Rock” Entrance to Rait Narrows South Anchorage I Thought the Seals Were Rocks! Anderson Cove Preparing to Anchor Places Only Kayaks Go Shallows Where Waterfalls Occur At Lower Tide Shallows at the Head of the Bay In Rait Narrows South Anchorage Kay and Alec Coming to Dine Anderson Cove Crew Arriving For Dinner Kona Welcomes Carol Onboard A Toast to Good Friends! Good Dining With Fine Friends The End of Another Day

There was still a breeze blowing in the morning and I was afraid we might have to stay another day. We decided to go and we were glad that we did. As we proceeded out of the anchorage behind Anderson Cove and Magistra we started for the rocky passage between Spitfire Island and Spider Island. The tide was low and the rocks were easy to see. The entrance was the only tricky part and once through there we were fine. When we came out of Spider Channel and into the open water of Queen Sound there was happily only a slight swell. The sun was out and it was a gorgeous morning to travel. It felt good to be back out and underway. We motored north around Superstition Point and into Cultus Sound. As we rounded the corner there were fishermen galore and even some kayakers. There is a lovely anchorage with a sandy beach that the Douglass call Kayak Cove just around the corner in Cultus Sound. Now we were in behind the McNaughton Group of islands and it was smooth water and very scenic. We rounded the first corner heading for Sans Peur Passage. I was nattering to Rick about something and Warren radioed to remind me to keep clear of Lane Rock. Kelp is my best friend! The large area of kelp in the middle of the channel caught my eye just in time and I moved away from the “alligator” Lane Rock, lurking under the kelp bed. There are several nice anchorages in the McNaughton Group that we will have to drop in at next year. As you get to the north end of these islands the “express route” to Bella Bella is to the right up Hunter Channel. Latta Island marks the intersection. Instead, we headed off to the left and in behind the Prince Group and on past the Admiral Group and the Tribal Group. Beyond these islands is Queen Sound and the swell that the open ocean offers up. When Rick suggested we go this way I was leery. After seeing the swells that could pump up out there I wasn’t sure that those little islands, as seen from the chart, would be protection enough. But, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the islands made for a great breakwater and we had a lovely, pleasant, mill pond ride all the way to Rait Narrows. We so enjoyed our trip that the Sea Foam Captain invited our traveling companions to a dinner aboard the vessel tonight in appreciation for this recommended route. The menu would be homemade clam chowder to start followed by a prime rib dinner (made the “Mark Weir” way) and, of course, lots of room temperature red wine to prepare the pallet for each mouthful. As we motored north along the west side of Campbell Island I continued to marvel at all the neat places to anchor and explore. You would never get tired of poking in and around all these islands. We continued onward and when we got to the intersection of Raymond Passage and Boddy Narrows we left Campbell Island and went up into Boddy Narrows on the west side of Horsfall Island and the Bardswell Island Group on our port side. It was about here that our travel guide, Anderson Cove, had a water pump problem and had to give the lead to us and limp along on one engine picking up the rear of the flotilla. We passed a locally made marker saying “Ray’s Rock” and Alec came over the radio and said, with the sharpest wit I’ve heard from an eighty three year old mariner, “Yes, that’s the name of the man who ran into the rock!” We negotiated the entrance to our anchorage with little difficulty as all the rocks were showing. It was a lovely place as Warren had promised, and we stayed out of the way while Anderson Cove maneuvered on one engine to anchor and Magistra rafted to him. We anchored close to the head of the bay and prepared to off load the kayaks and do some exploring of the area. We paddled into the shallows at the head of the bay and also a very pretty area at the entrance to the anchorage on the north side. Rick had taken Kona into this area earlier and as the tide was filling in there was a small waterfall made over the rocks in there. By the time we paddled in by kayak the water had filled in and the place was placid and beautiful. We returned to the vessel and prepared dinner. Our guests arrived and we started off the evening with Happy Hour and by the end of it we were dancing to a Tina Turner DVD. What a hoot! Carol was Tina and I was standing on the step to the cockpit portraying one of the Go-Go girls. Warren thought the evening was the highlight of his trip, so far! Captain Warren delivered Carol home first and Rick took Al in the Catch-Up. The octogenarians escorted themselves home and Kay negotiated her exit over the transom without the aid of a “granny door” to do it. She climbed over the back as if she were riding a horse on a carousel, using the flag pole as her saddle horn. A great time was had by all and I’m very glad Carol and Warren insisted on doing the dishes before morning because the galley was spotless and ready to go for morning.

Date	Route (Chart)	Weather
July 29/06	Rait Narrows South Anchorage to Shearwater Docks, Denny Island	Spitting Rain to Downpours

Rait Narrows at Low Tide Heading North Winding In and Through Rait Narrows Approaching Seaforth Channel Misty Morning in Seaforth Channel Dryad Point Lighthouse Station Ready to Dock in Shearwater Shearwater Docks Looking From Fishing Resort Dock Shearwater from Left to Right: Pub, Grocery Store, Marine Store, Laundry, Beauty Salon (Small Wooden Building the Edge of the Near Empty Hotel) Shearwater Shipyards Behind the Pub

Warren was interested in getting to Shearwater to see if he could secure a water pump from the Marine store there on a Saturday. We putted through Rait Narrows about an hour after the Anderson Cove and the Magistra had departed. The narrows were “narrow” but the water was deep. We came out into Seaforth Channel and the water was “mill pond” flat and it was only drizzling. This is a main route for cruise ships so we kept close to shore but didn’t see any. It was about an hour and a half trip to Shearwater and we enjoyed every minute of it. We headed around the north end of Campbell Island and on to Denny Island and into Kliktsoatli Harbour and on to the Shearwater docks. The lighthouse station at Dryad Point was a good subject for a photograph. Alec had called ahead to reserve a spot for us on the dock and we pulled in behind Anderson Cove. There is a grocery store, liquor store, laundry, hair dresser, pub and hotel located here. We headed to shore to do laundry and give Kona a chance to stretch her legs on something different than a pile of rocks. We were surprised to see a man on the dock talking on a cell phone. He said that about three weeks ago there was a tower built in Bella Bella and that’s where the service was coming from. I managed to listen to my voice mail, call my sons and download my e-mail. When we next tried to get reception we were unsuccessful and the Captain attributes the disruption to the fact that it was now low tide and we were just not quite high enough to get the signal from behind the hill. I met some fishermen from LaConner who had caught about six salmon. They were at the cleaning station so I talked with them about their slick way of filleting fish. I was invited to a close up demonstration and was even presented with a fillet of my own as a gift. They gave me some tips on what they used to catch their fish and a lesson on how to identify the types of salmon they had caught. Carol went to Bella Bella on the water taxi to grocery shop for a five dollar charge and returned with the Fisheries Department. She didn’t realize the taxi wasn’t returning until 1830 and she didn’t want to miss the Happy Hour she had invited us all to on her boat! After Happy Hour Alec and Kay treated us to dinner at the local pub on the dock. Kay stated that she doesn’t have much room on her boat and doesn’t have a flair for cooking so it was her way of presenting dinner! A fine invitation it was. The meal was delicious; we all had halibut in some form, except for Kay and Carol, who enjoyed homemade pizza and enough for another meal the next day. We went for an evening stroll over to the boat yard, returned to the Sea Foam and retired.

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