Summer 2007 Cruise – Leg 5

 

 

Date

 

 

Maltilpi to Forward Harbour

 

Weather

 August 8th, 2007

Sunny and Warm

 

Early Morning Johnstone Strait

 

 

Calm Seas in Johnstone Strait

 

 

 

 

ChrisCraft in the Evening Sun

in Forward Harbour

 

 

 

Forward Harbour Anchorage

I woke up early and the sky was clear with no trace of fog anywhere.  It is often foggy off the Johnstone Strait in the morning hours so today was going to be good for travel.  My Captain woke up and asked me what time it was.  It was 630 but I told him in was 800 and we needed to get underway.  He took Kona to shore and I got breakfast ready to eat on the run.

 

We pulled up anchor and were underway by 0700.  As we motored down Havannah Channel we could see Johnstone Strait ahead and the water looked smooth and non-threatening.  Once we were out there we were glad we had left early because the waves started out being insignificant but after about an hours time they were increasing in size and we were happy they were on our stern. 

 

My Captain had his binoculars out and as we was searching the north shore line for wildlife he spotted our friends Ron and Sue Lange aboard their cute little 25foot Alaskan Trader Tug, MV Popeye.  We were excited to see them but immediately disappointed to see they were going in the opposite direction as we were.

 

We hailed them on the VHF and had a nice chat.  We wrote a story about their lovely boat for Passage Maker and they said they have been stopped by all kinds of people who read the article and were happy to recognize them out on the water.  They had launched their trailerable boat this year in Powell River and would be spending a month out cruising around in the Broughtons. 

 

As we turned north into Sunderland Channel we noticed that the same fishing boat that we had seen last summer was still aground on Yorke Island.  It remains as a standing testimony of the fury or the fog the Johnstone Strait can dish out for the poor unsuspecting or “caught out” mariner. 

 

It had been a great two and a half hours on Johnstone Strait and we were also pleased to find only one other boat at anchor when we pulled into Forward Harbour again.  We anchored and decided we would get ready for a dive near Whirlpool Rapids.

 

Once we were settled and Kona had a run on the beach we got our gear out and headed out to the Midgham Islets just outside the entrance to the harbor.  There did not appear to be much current on the surface as we tied the Catch-Up off from the shore and threw the anchor off the stern to keep her off the rocks.  The dive was pleasant but there was current as we swam to ninety feet off the southern tip of the islet. We let the water push us back towards the tender and came up after about twenty-five minutes under.

 

We decided to explore the narrows at Whirlpool Rapids to see if that might be a good spot to dive tomorrow.  We went past the light at Carterer Point in Wellbore Channel and were disappointed to find it wasn’t very deep there.  We continued just a bit further south and found a deep hole off of the small unnamed islet across from Whirlpool Rapids.  We thought it would make a good dive spot and it seemed to be out of the current enough that we could dive without too much trouble.  We put it in our plans for diving tomorrow.

 

We were able to get cell phone reception in the anchorage which somewhat surprised us.  We caught up on our e-mail and did some photography editing.  Over four hundred dolphin pictures take a bit of time to sort through!

 

By the end of the day there were fifteen boats anchored along with us.  Again we were pleased we had left early for transit in Johnstone Strait as we heard other boaters on the radio talking about how the afternoon winds were playing havoc with their comfort as they traveled in the Strait.

 

I spent the rest of the day working on making bug screens for the two pilot house doors.

 

It was a beautiful warm sunny day and we enjoyed a barbeque dinner and a relaxing and peaceful evening.  

 

 

 

Date

 

 

Forward Harbour

Weather

 August 9th, 2007

Sunny Morning and Cloudy Afternoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sea Foam in Forward Harbour with Mt Gardenier in Background

 

 

 

I woke up at 0530 as the boat nearby was raising their anchor and heading out to either take advantage of smooth seas in Johnstone Strait or meet the current in Whirlpool Rapids at slack tide.  Our dive time today was 1300 so we had a lazy relaxing start to the morning.  By 1130 all the boaters in the anchorage had left and we had the place all to ourselves.  But, as we expected, we were only alone for about an hour and in came a small sailboat.  As we put our dive gear together and motored away in the Catch-Up another boat, the MV Break Time, motored into the anchorage.  As we approached slack in Whirlpool Rapids we expected to see more boaters coming through and filling up the anchorage again for the day. 

 

My Captain had been experiencing engine difficulties with our 50hp Mercury outboard.  We had bought gas in Coal Harbour in Vancouver that had water in it and our external fuel filter was working overtime to keep things clear.  Rick thought that the trouble was likely the fuel filter was clogged and he had made an attempt to swish it cleaner with some gas in an enclosed jar and that did seem to help.  But, as we made our way to the proposed dive spot the motor started sputtering and spitting and then just died.  The fuel line hand pump had sucked itself completely flat and that appeared to fit with the diagnosis that the fuel filter was likely completely clogged now.  It had behaved this way before when we were at near full throttle speed but if we slowed down the ball would fill up again and all would be well.  Well, not so this time.  We were not going anywhere. 

 

We had managed to get to the islet that we wanted to dive from and tied to it.  Rick tried several attempts to make things right to no avail.  The good thing was that when the current switched it would push us back in the direction of the anchorage not away from it and we could probably paddle the boat back but it would be difficult. 

 

After several attempts to make things right we used our VHF and radioed the Break Time in Forward Harbour and asked him for a tow back in.  We were lucky that he kept his radio on after anchoring and that he was more than willing to come and help us out which almost any fellow mariner would do.  You never know when it might be your turn next. 

 

Gary and his wife, Betty, had just settled into the anchorage but pulled up their anchor again and came and rescued us.  They threw us a line and we attached it to our bow line and they tied us off their stern cleat and away we went back to Sea Foam.  Captain Gary pulled us right up to our boat and after my Captain thanked them and offered his diving services to them if they might like that we untied and secured the Catch-Up to the Sea Foam.  Gary replied that if his anchor got fouled up he would give us a holler! 

 

Kona may have to be rowed to shore! But, I know my Captain.  He can fix anything.  He spent the rest of the afternoon trouble shooting the problem, by-passing this and that to determine where the problem might lie.  Before long he was scouting around the Sea Foam trying the engine out.  He determined that there was likely air in the engine and, although it wasn’t reliable, we would be able to get Kona to shore under power but we wouldn’t be straying too far from home.

 

We will have Rick’s sister Gale bring us a new fuel filter and a new tank hose to see if that improves the situation any until we can get home and have it thoroughly looked into.

 

Before dinner time Rick motored over to the Break Time and gave them a bottle of red wine for saving us.  They said after supper they would like to come over and visit us and Rick said we would be happy to have them.

 

He came back and informed me we were having guests so we both scrambled around and cleaned up the dinner dishes in the galley and tidied up the boat before our guests arrived. 

 

Gary and Betty from the MV Break Time came to visit and we spent a lovely evening with them talking about cruising adventures and scuba diving. 

 

They told the story of their boat disaster this summer when his raw cooling water hose to his exhaust fell off.  He didn’t have his bilge pump on automatic and when his alarms finally went off he had water in his aft stateroom ruining a computer, the carpets, etc.  They had guest on board that were unfamiliar with boating and of course they thought they were in danger of sinking.  It was quite a mess to clean up and very unsettling so they were very sympathetic with our day’s dilemma. 

 

At 2200 we called it a night, thanked them again for their rescue efforts and retired. 

 

 

 

 

 

Date

 

 

Forward Harbour to Hemming Bay to Octopus Islands

Weather

 August 10th, 2007

Cloudy but warm

 

Hemming Bay Private

(Hemming Bay Community)

 

 Passing by Cordero Lodge

 

Passing By Shoal Bay

 

 

We timed our departure to negotiate Whirlpool Rapids and Green Point Rapids further down the road.  The Captain thought that we could have waited a bit longer and taken advantage of a flood current giving us a bit of a push on the trip.  I don’t like to have any surprises when I get to any rapids, especially when the current is going with you, so I wanted to arrive at slack or as close as possible.  Not much hope of turning around if things are faster than you expected.  As it was, when we reached Greene Point Rapids we did enjoy about a two knot current behind us and it was still easy to negotiate the narrows. 

 

As we passed Cordero Islands we noticed two boats anchored in the small bay just east of the islands.  The three small islands surround the bay and it appeared quite protected from northwest winds.  We made a note to consider it as a possible anchorage next year when we come through this way again. 

 

As we continued on along Cordero Channel we passed the Cordero Lodge.  We had visited this dock several years ago in our tender when we were anchored in the bay west of the Cordero Islands.  They have a nice restaurant there and some interesting carvings displayed on the outside of the building done by the owner. 

 

We decided not to spend the night in Shoal Bay as we had gone for a short hike there on our way up so we continued on to Hemming Bay in Nodales Channel, on the east side of East Thurlow Island and  on the west side across from Thurston Bay Marine Park.  We have been to Thurston Bay Marine Park several times so decided to have lunch in Hemming Bay while we wait to go through the next two sets of rapids, Upper and Lower Rapids, at one of the three entrances to the Octopus Islands. 

 

We entered into Hemming Bay and we had the place all to ourselves.  The anchorage was nice enough but as we came in we laughed when we saw a sign that said “Private” on a little tiny islet.  We thought it was someone being funny placing that sign there.  As it turned out, after we were anchored and Kona was going to shore with the Captain, all the islets in the area said private.  Where Rick took Kona to shore there was a small ram shackled cabin and another sign that said, “Private – Hemming Bay Community”.

 

After lunch we weighed anchor and headed south towards Okisollo Channel at the north end of Quadra Island.  As we approached the eastern end of Johnstone Strait where it meets Discovery Passage we were able to get cell phone reception long enough to make a phone call to order two parts we need for the outboard motor.  My sister, Denise, will pick them up and have them in the trunk of our car which Denise is keeping in her driveway for the summer.  Rick’s sister, Gale and her two children, all flying in from Calgary, Alberta, will then drive them to us when we meet with her at Heriot Bay, Quadra Island on the 15th of August.  That makes twice this year we have had successful parts delivery while at sea!

 

We arrived at Lower Rapids at slack and there was no trouble negotiating the current there or at Upper Rapids.  Other boats were also coming through yet another high current area, Hole in the Wall, from the north into Okisollo Channel.  There is often a flurry of activity in these areas as all boaters move in and around the rapids near or at slack water.

 

We turned into the narrow opening at Bodega Anchorage to get to the more protected inside anchorages inside the Octopus Island Marine Park.  We anchored in eighteen feet of water and Rick got out the stern line to tie us to the shore from a tree behind us.  This anchorage is small and tight so most boats anchor with a shore tie to prevent swinging at anchor.  This would be the second time this trip that we had a stern line out – here and at Safety Boat Cove. 

 

The engine on the Catch-Up was working for now but only if we did not go very fast, asking only for a small amount of fuel at any given time.  The Captain has determined it is either a clogged fuel filter from the water in our gas earlier or the hand squeeze pump that primes the fuel from the gas tank to the engine is malfunctioning.  I was relieved to know that if the engine konked out again at least Kona could get to shore with Rick moving the tender along the shore line to get to land. 

 

We decided to take our prawn traps out to our favorite prawning location and on the way back stop at the cabin where everyone hangs an “art” object with their boat name on it.  After we laid the traps down we motored over there and found our mobile from last year on the north wall just to the right of the back door.  We signed the guest book again and spent some time looking around at all the art objects that boaters had created.  The owners of this cabin must maintain the “museum” because everything is neat and tidy and the floor is even swept.  All the “creations” are in good shape with no broken bits or things hanging in disarray.

 

We returned to the Sea Foam, had a late supper and retired to read. Rain fell after dark but we didn’t care if it rained all during the night and saved the sunshine for during the day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Date

 

Octopus Islands

 

 

Weather

 August 11th, 2007

Cloudy with Rainy periods

 

Kona Wanna Be

At Octopus Islands

 

 

Octopus Island Neighbors

 

 

MV Polar Bear

Navigating Narrow Shallow Exit

From Octopus Island

 

 

After breakfast we checked the traps and were disappointed to find only eight prawns and as many red rock crabs.  A prawn trap that caught crabs – go figure.  We thought that we might have put it in the wrong spot so we relocated it more carefully and left it down again.

 

Today was a dive day so we returned home and got our gear ready for a dive at 1300.  I looked through my dive log and determined where we had dove there three years ago from the chart I included and I had made comments about seeing a dog fish (looks just like a small shark), lots of swimming scallops (look like grandma’s dentures swimming along by opening and shutting) and a Puget Sound King Crab in the shallows.  I had rated this dive as an 8.

 

We did again see a dog fish almost in the same spot and at the very beginning of the dive just like last time as well.  We didn’t see nearly as many swimming scallops and we didn’t linger in the shallower water where we had seen the crab last time as the current had picked up.

 

On our way back from the dive we checked our prawn traps again and found only ten and more rock crabs, all too small to bother with.  This had always been a productive spot for us but obviously not this year.  We brought the traps up and motored back to the Sea Foam.  The rest of the day was spent indoors as it was pouring rain all day.  At least all our scuba gear was getting a good fresh water rinse out on the upper deck!

 

We hoped tomorrow would be a sunny day as we were planning on a hike to Newton Lake for a fresh water swimming fix.

 

We ate dinner at a reasonable hour and spent the evening sorting out pictures and working on the log. 

 

 

 

Date

 

 Octopus Islands

 

Weather

 August 12th, 2007

 

 

Octopus Islands

 

 

Octopus Islands

 

Trail to Newton Lake

 

 

Newton Lake in the Rain

 

Rain Stopped in Time

For Lunch

 

Blue Heron in a Rain Storm

 

 

 

 

The day was not much improved and we woke up to rain.  We decided to plan our hike anyway and wear our rain gear.  If the sun came out we could just stuff it all into our knapsack along with the picnic lunch and camara and carry on.

 

The hike to Newton Lake is lovely.  We first motored to the head of Waiatt Bay, just west of the Octopus Islands.  This is a large anchorage with a depth of about thirty feet throughout most of it.  Many of the larger boats anchor here rather than in the tight and shallow areas around the Octopus Islands. 

 

It was low tide so we took the Catch-Up in as far as we could and waded into shore in our water shoes.  We hauled out the anchor on about forty feet of line and Rick hung our fifteen pound weight off the bow line of the Catch-up to keep it off the beach when the tide came in.  On our return the water would be up and we would be able to pick the anchor up off the beach and pull the Catch-Up in to us.  We changed our shoes to hiking boats and started on our way.

 

The trail is mostly level and in old growth forest with a bark mulch floor.  At the first fork in the trail if you go to the right you go to the had of Small Inlet and that is about a twenty minute walk.  If you go to the left you are headed for Newton Lake and Granite Bay Road.  It takes about two and a half hours.  At one point we came to a direction sign that said Newton Lake was only one mile away.  If that were correct we would have arrived there in about forty minutes from the sign.  At one point on the trail, when you are walking above a steep stream bed, the trail begins to get steeper.  This climb takes about twenty minutes.  Once past this it is flat again and on to the lake. 

 

Last time we walked here we saw a bit of water through the trees on our right.  We thought we had arrived but it turned out to be a slough.  I thought, incorrectly, that this was the lake and I was disappointed to think I had hiked all this way for a bug filled bog!  That was not the lake but its overflow.  We carried on and found the beautiful crystal clear lake.  There are large smooth rock cliffs along one side and when we were here last there were several young people diving from there so we had stopped and lunch along the shoreline.

 

Today there was no one around so we walked to the cliffs.  It was still raining and getting a good picture of the lake was going to be difficult.  We did manage to have lunch in a brief moment when the rain decided to stop.  We will climb up here again next year and hopefully the sun will be shining!

 

On our return down the trail we met with two kayakers who had come from Oregon to paddle in these waters.  We told them about how much farther they had to go to get to the lake and where a good spot might be around the islands for them to set up their tents out of the rain.

 

We returned to the beach to find the Catch-Up floating away from shore, we pulled up the anchor line and climbed in without any problems. 

 

As we were leaving one of the kayakers came out through the woods and I was surprised to see him back from the lake so quickly.  When I expressed that he said it wasn’t much of a lake and they were unable to catch any fish.  I then realized that they had also seen the slough area and thought it was the lake.  Because we had more snow this year and not much hot summer weather, the slough when I first saw it was all but dried up but this year it was more substantial and they had mistaken it for the lake. 

 

I felt bad that I hadn’t pointed out that possibility to them but I forgot all about it until I saw them standing on the beach so soon after meeting them on the trail. 

 

We got back to the boat and we were wet and tired.  After having a hot shower we enjoyed a hot supper, a good  book and a restful sleep.  Tomorrow we would weight anchor and head further south.

 

 

 

Date

 

Octopus Islands, Surge Narrows Store, Bold Island

 

Weather

 August 13th, 2007

Cloudy morning, sunny by noon

 

Beazley Pass, Surge Narrows

 

 

Tusko Rock, Surge Narrows

 

 

Float Homes at Surge Narrows, Read Island

 

 

Closed Historic Surge Narrows Store

 

 

View from Bold Island Anchorage

 

Lovely Oysters

From Bold Island

 

 

Octopus Island Marine Park is surrounded by three sets of narrows that all need to be timed to get safely through and past them.  On our way in we had negotiated Upper and Lower Rapids, gone by Hole in the Wall on our port side and now needed to time our exit through Surge Narrows at the northeast side of Quadra Island.

 

Many of the other boats in Octopus Island weighed anchor at about the same time as each boat headed off for another day of cruising either to the west through Upper and Lower Rapids, to the north through Hole in the Wall, or with us, to the east through Surge Narrows at Beazley Passage.

 

The sun had finally decided to come out and our trip down Okisollo Channel at 1030 was lovely.  There were two sailboats in front of us that would be going through the pass at slack as well.  As if you don’t have enough to think about there is a threatening “alligator” rock, Tusko Rock, which protrudes into the narrows from the north shore.  Being low tide we could easily see it along with the help of the summer kelp forest growing all around it.  We made the pass without incident and turn north to pay a visit to the Surge Narrows General Store on the west side of Read Island. 

 

I had read in a magazine about this general store and how it was restored to its original condition from the 1920’s.  I wanted to see the old-time country store and perhaps buy some gifts and a head of lettuce from the local green thumbs in the area.  

 

As we approached we saw the buildings but two small boats were on the dock and a sign hung on the building saying “Sorry, we’re closed”.  Oh well, on to Bold Island for oysters and clams.

 

Bold Island is tucked in along the east side of Quadra Island and has a lovely low tide beach for clamming and oyster gathering.  We were again in cell phone reception so I quickly checked the internet for any paralytic shell fish closures in the area.  I always check before I go digging so I don’t go to all the effort to later find out I will perish if I eat any of the shoreline delicacies. 

 

I was in luck as the report was from August 9th and there were no closures in the area where we would be going.  Yee-haw!  An oyster feast tonight!!

 

We anchored near the oyster farm across the way from the beach I need to go to and had a lovely view out over Sutil Channel to Dunsterville Islet and the southwest tip of Read Island.  We got to the beach and in all of ten minutes I had enough oysters for our evening meal.  I forgot to bring along our clam shovel so we put that off until tomorrow’s low tide.

 

I spent the rest of the afternoon preparing the oysters.  I steam them open, pluck the little lovelies from their shells and prepare a batter to pan fry them in. 

 

After supper we relaxed and made some phone calls and caught up on our e-mail.

 

Tomorrow we will hike to Village Bay Lake for another fresh water fix.

 

 

 

Date

 

 Bold Island

 

Weather

 August 14th, 2007

Sunny

 

 

Ship to Shore in Bold Island

 

Village Bay Lake to the North taken from the Bridge

 

Village Bay Lake looking south

 

 

Trail from the Lake back

To Surge Narrows Road

 

 

Soaking Up Some Sun

Village Bay Lake

 

 

 

Low Tide at Bold Island

 

Clam Gathering

 

Job Complete

Time to Return to the Mothership

 

 

Lovely Manilla Clams

Another beautiful day in the neighborhood.  Low tide would be at 1300 today so we decided to go to the lake for a picnic first and then on to dig for clams after that. 

 

We packed up our swimming gear and a picnic lunch and away we went.  We tied the Catch-Up to shore with a lot of anchor line out much like we did for our hike to Newton Lake.  We headed off on Bold Island Road and turned left onto Surge Narrows Road.  We crossed the little bridge over Village Bay Lake and took the trail just past the parking area on the left.  The scrub brush comes right to the edge of the trail as you walk but the trail is good and an easy walk to the lake.  The rocks we swam from last time we were here were occupied with other young swimmers so we found another location that was warm, sunny and private.

 

After a refreshing dip we had lunch and carried on back to the Catch-Up.  We didn’t want to miss the low tide for digging up our clams and collecting a few more oysters. 

 

The Catch-Up was waiting for us and I stayed on the beach and chose small sweet oysters for oyster linguine and Rick took Kona back to the Sea Foam and fetched my clam shovel.  He returned without Kona, (it was too hot for her) and together we dug up a bucket full of manilla clams for clam chowder soup.

 

While the Captain spent the rest of the afternoon doing boat chores I shucked oysters and steamed clams.  We needed to get all things prepared for our Calgary guests’ arrival tomorrow.

 

We enjoyed a feed of pan fried oysters and relaxed after supper with a good book.  Tomorrow would be a busy day of boat clean up and incoming crew.

 

We retired early after enjoying a beautiful sunset in our anchorage. 

 

 

 

 

Date

 

 

Bold Island to Heriot Bay Marina, to Rebecca Spit, Quadra Island

Weather

 August 15thth, 2007

Clear Blue Sunny Sky

 

 

Shore Duty Rebecca Spit

Quadra Island

 

 

Leaving Heriot Bay Marina

 

 

Ali, Kona and CA

First Kayak Trip

Rebecca Spit

 

 

Niki’s First  Lesson

 

 

Niki – Like A Duck to Water

 

 

Off and Away

 

 

Gale in the Setting Sun

Rebecca Spit

 

 

Our New Teak Bowl

Full of Red Rock Crab

 

 

 

Crab Dinner for our Guests

 

 

 

 

 

After breakfast we started getting ready to head to the Heriot Bay Marina for noon.  We had many chores today before our guests arrive from Calgary today in the late afternoon.  Laundry, groceries, and boat clean-up are on the list for today. 

 

We had a text message from Rick’s sister Gale, that she will be on the noon ferry out of Horseshoe Bay and we determined she would likely arrive here around 1800.  She has a hour and a half ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo, an almost two hour drive from Nanaimo to Campbell River and then a ten minute ferry ride over to Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island.  From there it is likely a fifteen minute drive to Heriot Bay Marina where we will be waiting to welcome Gale, Niki and Ali aboard.  Kona will be in her glory to have constant petting and admiration while the kids are here.

 

At noon we headed into Heriot Bay Marina to tie up, plug in and fill up with water.  Rick stayed behind to do the laundry at the hotel and I made off for the grocery and liquor store.  The nice thing about the Thrifty’s store here is that they deliver the groceries back to the boat for you and even help carry everything back down the ramp and back to the boat.  That’s what I call customer service!!

 

When I got finished my shore duties Rick was almost finished his.  It was really hot in the marina and there was little breeze making its way into the area.  We decided that when Gale, Niki and Ali arrived we would leave the dock and go back to Rebecca Spit and anchor for the night.  The breeze would be lovely, this was predicted to be the last sunny day for about four more days and the kids would probably like to kayak around along the beach and go exploring.

 

Our guests arrived and we greeted them with great fanfare, hugs and smiles.  Captain Rick went into the hotel and got a permit to leave the car parked in their lot for our time away for three dollars a day.  The car would be safe and ready for when Gale and the kids head back home. 

 

We untied at the dock, paid five dollars for the use of power and water and moved off to anchor in Rebecca Spit again for the night.  After stowing away all our guests’ gear we had a leisurely putt over to Rebecca Spit again and anchored. 

 

The Captain got the kayaks down from the roof of the pilot house and we tied them to the Catch-Up and headed for the beach.  After the kids were shown a few things about kayaking they were off and paddling about in the anchor while the adults visited and sipped cool beverages on the beach.  The evening was gorgeous and as the sun moved lower on the horizon we returned to the Sea Foam for supper.

 

Gale brought several gifts for us including wine and several items from her store in Calgary, From the Ground Up.  She is an interior designer and imports reclaimed (two hundred year old teak wood hand-made into cabinets, tables, bench, etc.) teak furniture and accessories from Indonesia, China and Thailand.  She brought us a hand carved Buddha, a teak bowl set and a lovely bottle of wine. Rick and I also got batik kimonos from Bali.

 

We enjoyed a feast of rock crabs while we caught up on news and Gale and Rick told stories about their childhood antics.  We retired at 0100 after another busy but enjoyable day on the water.

 

 

 

Date

 

Rebecca Spit, Quadra Island to Gorge Harbour, Cortes Island

 

Weather

 August 16th, 2007

Cloudy with a few sunny periods

 

 

Ali Keeping a Sharp Look-out

At the Helm

 

 

Suitcases for Steps

Will Have to Do

 

 

New Navigators

 

 

 

 

 

We took our time getting started in the morning and weighed anchor at noon from Rebecca Spit.  The clouds were moving in and we motored slowly over to Cortes Island.  The wind was picking up from the south and we were being rained on.

 

Niki and Ali took turns at the wheel.  They needed to be boosted up or they were unable to see over the wheel.  Ali was keeping a close watch for passing whales but had to be content with only a few seal sightings.   When one child was driving the other joined Gale at the pilot house bench to watch the charts and survey the surrounding area.

 

Many years ago Gale spent two years sailing around on a forty foot sailing vessel in the South Pacific.  She is glad to be back out on the water again after much too long a time away from it!

 

Uganda Passage is a thin, narrow and winding pass that separates Cortes Island From Marina Island.  It is easily negotiated as along as you know your navigational aids and you pay attention to your sounder.  Shark Spit is long and low with beautiful sand beaches. 

 

We had a discussion about which side of the red marker we should be traveling on with the adage, “Red Right, Returning”.  Through this narrow passage on our approach from the west, the red marker was on our port side.  You have to remember that it is assumed you are “returning” from the south.  If you aren’t familiar or aware, you might try to take this passage with the red marker on your right and get yourself into a big problem!  The green markers keep you off the tip of Shark Spit which is covered at high tide. 

 

As we entered the narrow “gorge” at Gorge Harbour we slowed down and showed our guests the Indian pictographs on the rock wall to port as you enter.  You have to look closely for the orange, rust colored figures on the rocks about half way up. 

 

There is a marina in the harbor and a store, liquor agency, video rentals, kayak rentals, propane and wireless internet.  We have noted throughout this trip that almost every marina we passed or stayed at now has wireless internet as part of its amenities. 

 

We anchored at the head of the bay to the west of the entrance and settled down for a good first day visit with our guests.  We enjoyed a seafood lasagna made with prawns and crab, good wine and lively conversation. 

 

 

 

 

Date

 

 Gorge Harbour to Shark Spit, to Gorge Harbour

 

Weather

 August 17th, 2007

Cloudy, windy with spitting rain

 

Entrance to Gorge Harbour

Looking South

 

Pictographs Port Side

Enter the Gorge

 

 

Markers at Uganda Passage

Shark Spit

 

The Return of the Kayakers

 

 

 

Campfire Builders

 

 

Weenie Roast Shark Spit

 

 

Today’s excursion is to Shark Spit.  The weather was not great for the day but we were going to wear our wet gear and have a weenie roast on the beach. 

 

We motored over to Shark Spit and got into position to anchor off the beach.  It shallows very quickly here and before we knew it we were in five feet of water with the Sea Foam!  We moved away and got anchored and took the Catch-Up the rest of the way into shore towing the kayaks along with us.  The sky was darkening and the wind was picking up but it would blow the kids into shore rather than away so we didn’t mind them kayaking around.

 

We went to shore and explored finding two kayak camps that had firepits, outhouses and picnic tables.  There was even kindling and paper to build a fire for our weenie roast. 

 

Gale and I got the fire going and Rick made sure it stayed lit.  There were nice bench seats all around the fire to sit on while we got lunch ready.  The kids returned from kayaking and we munched on roasted weenies cooked over the hot coals.  The wind was picking up and the tide was starting to rise.  It started to spit rain so we decided to head back to the Sea Foam and Gorge Harbour where we knew our anchorage was bomb proof.

 

The Catch-Up was difficult to get out of the sand put we managed to twist it and turn it and pull and get it floating again.  When that boat gets stuck in the sand it’s difficult to wiggle out eleven hundred pounds!  It’s not like a small rubber ducky that you can almost pick right up.

 

We got back to the Sea Foam and headed back to Gorge Harbour to anchor in our same area.  We settled down for dinner and enjoyed lively conversation and a good movie afterwards.  We retired with hopes for better weather tomorrow morning.   

 

 

 

Date

Gorge Harbour to Mitlenatch Island, to Gorge Harbour 

 

 

Weather

 August 18th, 2007

Cloudy with small shower periods

 

 

Mitlenatch Anchorage

 

 

Colorful Pebbles

On Mitlenatch Beach

 

 

 

CA Waiting on the Beach

With Kona – No Dogs Allowed

 

Designated Trails

Throughout the Island

 

 

 

 

 

Glaucous Winged Gull

Babies with their Moms

 

Hen and Chick

 

 

Niki and Gale Behind a Blind

 

Happy Gale Behind a Blind

 

 

 

Sky from our Anchorage

 

 

Mitlenatch Summer Flowers

 

 

 

Resident Seals at Mitlenatch

 

 

 

 

Today the winds were predicted to be light but the sun was not expected to shine.  Tomorrow was to be a better day so we decided to take a trip to Mitlenatch Island, just south of Quadra Island in the Strait of Georgia. 

 

Mitlenatch Island is a wildlife refuge with a ranger on site in the summer months, living in a small wooden shed on the east side of the island.  Visitors are asked to stay on the trails and not disturb any of the birds or other wildlife that inhabit the area.

 

There are few anchorages at this island and the best protected area is very shallow and has room for only one or two boats.  We pulled into the anchorage at the east end of the island and found two sailboats already anchored.  Ali had a great surprise finding the rocks covered with seals basking in the sun.  One of the sailboats told us they were leaving but it was too difficult to negotiate in the tight anchorage while waiting for him to pull out so we abandoned the idea of anchoring in there.  The wind had picked up and was blowing into the spot which didn’t make matters any easier. 

 

As we motored out of the small bay the other sailboat made away as well.  Rather than go back we head around to the north side of the island where there is a large beach area and anchored in 45 feet of water.  We loaded into the Catch-Up and slowly motored into shore.

 

The beach was covered with small, smooth colorful pebbles.  The sound of the gulls on the rocks and overhead was loud.  I stayed behind on the beach with Kona (no dogs allowed on the island) while Rick, Gale, Nik and Ali wandered around on the trails taking pictures and watching the birds from behind the blinds that have been positioned to observe the birds and their young.  Inside the blinds are posters telling you all about the species of birds in the area and their habits and breeding patterns.

 

When everyone returned we got back into the Catch-Up and slowly traveled along the shoreline so Ali and Nik could take more pictures of the seals lining all the rocks around the island.  Sea lions are reported to be in the area as well but we didn’t see any today.

 

Our tour of the island was over so we headed back to our reliable anchorage in Gorge Harbour and settled down for the night.  We enjoyed another seafood meal of oyster linguine, wine and conversations and discussions about the day.  Another beautiful day complete on the water.

 

Date

Gorge Harbour to Manson Bay, (Hague Lake) to Gorge Harbour

 

 

Weather

 August 19th, 2007

Sunny

 

Leaving Gorge for Manson’s Landing

Mitlenatch Island in Background

 

 

Manson’s Lagoon

 

 

Manson’s Lagoon

(L.toR.) Niki, Gale, CA, Ali

 

Gale in Fresh Water

Hague Lake

 

 

Kona Likes Fresh Water Fetching

 

 

 

 

Our plan for today was to take the Sea Foam out of the Gorge and over to Manson’s Landing to anchor.  Because the Catch-Up is still acting up we can’t depend on her to take us the distances we are used to going in her with.  We would motor over to the public dock in the Catch-Up and walk the short distance along Manson’s Lagoon, onto the trail and down to Hague Lake for a fresh water swim.

 

After breakfast we packed up our beach clothes and a picnic for our day at the Lake.  When we came out of the Gorge and motored into Manson Bay we were surprised to see how deep the water was.  The public dock was full and there were several sail boats anchored along the shore line but we didn’t want to leave the boat so exposed when we would be away for the day.  We decided to anchor at the head of the bay and use a stern tie.  The water was twenty feet deep just off the rocks so it was a good, secure spot to leave the boat for the day.  We motored off to the dock in Catch-Up but she continued to sputter and spit and just about konk out. 

 

I read in the Waggoner that there is a history “Mansons Landing Store” about three quarters of a mile up the road to the right of the public dock.  I wanted to check out the store that is reported to sell organic foods and look into the attached book store but Ali has a broken foot and that much of a walk would have been too hard for her.  There is apparently a post office and library and a small market across the street from the historic store.

 

We tied up and started off walking to the lake.  Once we got on the lagoon side we realized the tide was high enough that we could have brought the Catch-Up right into the lagoon with all our stuff and had a shorter distance to walk.  Ali has a broken foot and shouldn’t be walking much so that would have been a better idea.  We have never done it that way but we noticed that two other boaters had brought their tenders in so we will consider that possibility for next year.

 

When we arrived at the lake, after about a ten minute walk, it was gorgeous but the water was very high on the beach leaving little room for parking towels and sitting etc.  We thought the lake must be high because of all the rain we have had this year. 

 

We spent the day swimming and sunning and headed back down the trail to the Catch-Up waiting at the government dock at Manson’s Landing.  We boarded the Sea Foam and headed back to Gorge Harbour for another night in a secure and restful anchorage.

 

We had a late dinner and retired soon after.  Another fun filled day on the water. 

Date

Gorge Harbour to Rebecca Spit (Taku Resort), Quadra Island

 

 

Weather

 August 20th, 2007

Rainy and Cloudy

 

 

Good-bye Gorge Harbour

 

 

 

Taku Resort

 

 

Taku Resort Docks

 

 

Resort Cabins

 

 

View from Resort Cabins

Across Rebecca Spit

 

 

Happy Galley Helper

(photo by Niki)

 

 

Resting Captain

Happy with his Crew

(photo by Niki)

 

 

 

Last night the south easterlies blew hard in our anchorage and I was awake most of the night.  At one point the Captain got up and made reference to our position in relation to the boat next to us.  I heard the anchor chain twice either rubbing along the ground or dragging.  I got up and noticed that we were now slightly behind the guy next to us so now I was wondering if we were dragging or had the chain just stretched out.  Needless to say, I was on anchor watch. 

 

Once morning came the winds had died but were predicted to increase again from the south up to twenty knots.  I encouraged the Captain and the crew to get a move on because I didn’t want the residue waves from last night to be further increased with another blow up.  We had to cross Sutil Channel to get back to Rebecca Spit and the waves would be on our port beam making the six nautical crossing uncomfortable if the waves had a chance to build up.

 

We headed off by 0900 and were tied up at Taku Resort at Rebecca Spit by 1100.  This resort had a much better view of the surrounding area and had laundry facilities and water, both of which we needed.  The Heriot Bay grocery store was also nearby and where we had left the car after picking up Gale and the kids.

 

We left the Captain in charge of laundry and Gale, Nik, Ali and I went to get the car, some groceries and then returned to the Sea Foam to see if the Captain wanted to come for a ride in the car for some island exploration.  He declined so we headed off without him.  We went to see the Cape Mudge lighthouse and were disappointed to find there was no one in the area and signage telling us to stay away.  There was a trail for us to walk but it was raining again so we stayed in the car and visited a nearby resort and a local pottery gallery instead, James Pottery, off of Joyce Road. 

 

Gale bought a beautiful large pottery bowl for a centre piece for her teak dining room table.   It turned out that the man and his wife who made the pieces were also from Calgary but had lived on Quadra for twenty-six years, ever since they visited the island for their honeymoon and fell in love with it! 

 

We returned to the Sea Foam and found that the Captain had completed the laundry and had returned with someone’s baby socks and another unidentified sock.  All our stuff was accounted for.  He had also succeeded in uploading all the new information and pictures to the log so a celebration was in order.

 

Gale and the kids will be shoving off tomorrow back to Vancouver and leaving for Calgary at the end of the week.  We decided that tonight would be a celebration of a successful cruise together and more to come in the future.  We had a feast of clam chowder, Mediterranean bread and good red wine.  Ali and the Captain stayed up to watch a DVD but the rest of the crew retired snoring.

 

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